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Maggies motorcycle tourism Quebec

I arrived at the dock Mouse does not know what to expect. Even with my research was still a mystery and, despite hearing stories, I've never met anyone who had really been there. Fishers Basques had sailed in the archipelago to hunt the sea cow, "even before Columbus discovered America, but then as now, the best kept secrets of the sea is not on the cards. However, when docked at the island of Traverse Prince Edward Island nine bicycles deployed, when he left, he took four.

The Magdalen Islands (Iles de la Madeleine) is one of those "rare" in places to ride, but few have heard. Located in the Gulf of St. Lawrence River about 134 miles (215 km) east of the Gaspé region, 65 miles (105 km) north of Prince Edward Island and 60 miles (95 km) west of Cape Breton, "Maggie's" are considered the most northern Appalachians and belong to the province of Quebec. Authoritative sources, can not even agree on the extent of its size (somewhere between 77 and 88 square miles), but there are seven inhabited islands and all except one are connected by a single road. The only purpose of my trip was to be capable of driving on this road. A five-hour ferry ride creates a sense of distance and instills a feeling we're going to an exotic destination. From deeper blue side of the sea port of the vessel were emerald green hills of the upper red sandstone cliff a hundred feet, a whale whale swimming parallel to our course. My first point of entry to the island is unlike any other part of the Appalachians had ever seen.

Barking at Muela (Cap-aux-wheels), my first stop was at the gates of the ferry at tourist information center. The Office Tourism has contributed generously to this trip is all the work of creating a route based on my specific requests. It seems that AA tonight I sleep in a convent.

Imagine a place where every house is painted a different color. Originally developed as a tradition tag identification Acadia go home for fishermen, have survived and matured into a form of cultural art that have actively adopted by the Islanders. Different colors are mixed with purple, red, blue, orange, green and yellow houses painted turquoise pastel pink, lavender, mint and purple. Cut contrasting or complementary colors, each differs from its neighbors, is the dream of a photographer. Route 199 is only 54.6 miles (88 km) long and, despite some sharp curves, which offer no technical problems. The total length of quays at the port of La Grave, Grande Lobby, can easily be mounted at half past one. The total mileage of all roads, both dirt and concrete in the archipelago is less than 186 miles (300 km). However, all the time, effort and expense needed to make me this way proves to be justified.

A 12-mile segment of the Route 199 runs along the north through the dunes and small Seal Point Island (Isla de la Pointe-aux-Loups-Loup-Marin is the local name stamp). This a long straight road. Power poles line both sides of the road, which converge in the distance, while heat waves add an image already waving a surreal smooth surface asphalt built on a foundation of sand. Normally, I do not mind long straight roads, but this is exceptional. Here, the lines of the ocean on both sides of the road only to disappear behind a hill of grass rooted in the sand. Elsewhere sand Dune Ridge across the road and the impact on the asphalt shoulder while herons pass by marsh water heavy on the salty side of the road. I like riding through sand dunes and offers more miles, more dunes, less traffic and only a small fraction of the number of people on the Central Coast Cape Cod

Step one of the top ranked beaches in the world. D'arc around East Point National Wildlife Reserve, East Point Beach and Great Échouerie (a Échouerie is where walruses or sea cows, once themselves transported ashore to sunbathe) combine to provide continuous 13 miles (22 km) of beach sand. The exception of two small sections at the ends, he has abandoned this outstanding group of sand. I could run naked in many islands "196 miles of pristine beaches and can not find a single person. Bicycles can be parked anywhere, theft of a motorcycle is not only feasible when the only way is by ferry.

The road ends at the dock in Grande-Entrée. Today, most of the fishing fleet is docked and shops and restaurants seem to be moderately busy. I take some pictures, but I have failed to cover at least 30 miles this morning, I still enjoy. The tomb is at the other end of the road, pulling a U-turn, you go in the direction opposite.

The southern end of Route 199 ends at another dock fishing, but the island of Port Albert (Ile du Havre-Aubert) continues for several miles from Sandy Hook, a sand dune that stretches long tapered on the island of entry. The village of La Grave was the first colony on the island, founded in 1755 by refugees fleeing the deportation of the Acadians (the Great Upheaval) by the British withdrawal Nova Scotia (others have tried in Louisiana and Cajun culture created).

The village of La Grave has become a community of artists. Its cedar shingles small fishing casts date from the age of 20 and 19 principles, but instead of lobster traps housing, which were converted into small shops and galleries featuring the work of artists and artisans. Coffee's grave is located in the old building and the interior does not correspond to their chairs and tables adorned with funky original art makes this place the local meeting. This is the place to order specialty Local pie with seafood called "pot-in-pot".

In the town of L'Etang-du-Nord, a set of colored wooden tables stores face turned towards the sea Yellow seems to be the Costa Coffee, where salt cod is the pizza house specialty. Hence, the angular center of the Duke Connaught may be supported on the rocks Savage Head (Cap a savage). With red rust as the cliffs, I can not understand this which is and must ask. The local joke is the work of a contemporary metal sculptor.

Consequently, a large percentage of the population are the direct descendants of the survivors of more than 400 shipwrecks, and many buildings in these islands are built of wood saved the ship. An example is the Church St. Peter's Lavernière; also has the distinction of being the second largest wooden church in North America.

Fishing is the mainstay of the local economy. More than 2 million pounds of lobster are caught each year, and fresh scallops, blue mussels, clams, crab and a variety fish. Smoked fish is a tradition of the island and some old-style smoked (barracks) is balls straw are used by farmers. Smokehouse d'Antan Island Havre-aux-Maisons has created an excellent small museum in the smoking room of origin. This year, we allowed for 60,000 pounds of herring - who also smoked mackerel, eel and scallops - and three quarters of this amount will be sold in the islands. Buy empty packages at the house and a couple of "snack packs" to munch while driving ON - this probably explains why my tankbag feels a little fishy.

The presentation is Salicorne this evening at the Auberge La Grande-Entrée, and kicking back with a foam cup of beer and eating sausages local seal I heard the other side of the controversial seal hunt and local history. Before the establishment of Route 199 in 1956, Islanders had the boat from island to island. This has created several unique communities to consider in particular the land. Today, it is still evident in the Island Input, the only inhabited not connected by road. There are local pedestrian ferry, but he chose to six miles (10 km) hike through water free in an inflatable boat (Zodiac), managed by Excursions at sea

After rounding the island and visit the sites of nesting birds local sea, including those of The Auk Auk, spent several hours climbing the mountain to the Big Hill for a panoramic view of the archipelago.

It is finally time to leave the islands and parcel of the Ducati in the belly of the vacancy for the trip up the St. Lawrence River to Montreal. Despite its small size, four days in the islands was not enough time to enjoy everything they have to offer and I never tired of coming and going the same way. I must be content with that, but does not provide a reason for me to return to the Magdalen Islands year.

About the Author

To read more touring stories like this one, go to ridermagazine.com. Rider is also the place for motorcycle news, reviews and other information.


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